Overlooking Lisbon's city-centre, Castelo de São Jorge is nested on the highest perch in the city. Dating back to the second century AD, the castle is an icon of European antiquity, and offers spectacular views of the city and the Tagus river, which empties into the Atlantic ocean nearby. With rich blue skies blanketing the horizon, we felt that this day was perfect to explore the hilltop neighborhood.
Firmly strung on Lonely Planet's shoestring, we neglected advice to catch the tram up the nigh precipitous hill, and instead navigated a tangle of eerily deserted cobblestone streets behind the hill - on foot. Without the roar of buses in high gear, tram bells, and tour-group stampedes, we managed to see signs of local life - generally a bewildered stare from a dark, withered face - as we got lost in the maze of pastel houses, each with sheets fluttering from their balconies.
"Up" was our only guide, and eventually, we came to this beautiful laneway featured in the photo. It led to the main entrance of the castle, where we could hear the hiss of bus hydraulics and whirring chatter, but we were pleased with our 'discovery'. Had we chosen to take the tram or bus, we would have likely missed it! We'd saved three euro, and had a more intimate look at this seductive, decaying district of Lisbon. So in other words... walk.
